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苦等西澳的SMP，无聊中看到这样一篇描述佩斯的帖子，到底是否还申请西澳的担保？我很迷茫
这是链接：http://www.inperth.com.au/forums ... der=asc&start=0
转帖如下：
My honest impressions of Perth.
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Hi... My family and I have moved here from Newcastle NSW to Perth for a period of three years as my husband has a working contract for that time.
Though we have only been here for five months I'd like to offer my honest first impressions of this new city.
I have to say I was very excited about this move here, looking at it as a chance to explore a side of Australia that we never could before, due to distance and time.
We are still looking forward to doing that.
Almost everyone I spoke to before we moved here told me that Perth is so "beautiful".
"You'll love it....you won't want to come back!" they said.
The first thing we had to do upon our arrival was find the right suburb to rent in.
Impossible to do so just by researching on the net and asking other people who had lived here before...We really had to look around ourselves.
We had been looking online at Realestate .com.au at rental properties for months beforehand but clever photography completely distorted the reality of what we would find once we began checking out many of the properties listed.
So many of them, particularly the more affordable rentals, we soon found were in the abundant "new estates" here in Perth.
After the first day of viewing dozens of these houses I was completely disheartened and disappointed.
The houses in these new estates are built SO close to each other....rooftops touching rooftops - literally!
So close that you would be guaranteed to hear your next door neighbours having sex!
They literally flatten the earth...not a tree in sight and squeeze as many houses as they can into one space.
(It reminded me very much of the Western suburbs of Sydney)
The general flatness of Perth just turns this into an ugly sea of fences and rooftops.
I felt claustrophobic just driving through these suburbs.
We found that North of the river was generally more "established" but the reality was that many of the suburbs were still crowded new estates, just prettied up somewhat by lawns and shrubs and nicely maintained public parks. (speaking of which there are tonnes of these nicely maintained public parks where people seem to gather in abundance for picnics and barbeques etc. Not my "thing" though. I prefer the natural beauty of the bush where you can get away from people. One day we even had a football land smack bang in the middle of a chocolate cake we were preparing to eat. Though it was amusing at the time - Aggghh....give me SPACE!)
Most of the houses north of the river were still crammed together and not even the very tall fences between houses gave one a sense of privacy.
We were staying in a holiday house in Mindarie and each night as I sat outside under the pergola all I could see was a tiny slither of sky between the top of the surrounding back fence and the roof of the pergola.
I wanted more sky!
We drove in every direction searching for the right house in the right suburb- We almost (out of frustration) took a house in Bibra lake, though at the last minute found out that some of the primary schools in that area had a bad reputation ( surprise for us as usually it's the high schools you have to worry about) and then I decided I still could not bring myself to live in a house where I could pass recipies through my kitchen window to the neighbours in THEIR kitchen... AND there was no garage.
Perth doesn't seem very big on proper garages - instead there are a lot of these weird three sided (open at the back) car ports.
We needed a closed in garage to store our things and able to be used as a secure workshed.
After even more travel and investigation we finally decided that the Hills district- round Mundaring was MUCH more scenic - God, at least there were tree's - shade, and a little more space!
We almost took a house there but at the last minute again changed our minds as it was our intention to be closer to the city itself and to Fremantle.
(Since then I have been told that bushfires in that area are a worry in Summer - must be similar to the Blue mountains in Sydney I guess.)
After ten days of constant searching we finally took a house in Coogee.
It's WAY more than we wanted to pay. It's small, nowhere nice as any of the rentals we could afford in the Newcastle area but it's close to Fremantle ....besides, after ten days of constant searching we had run out of time ( and patience) as my husband had to start work.
I wish we had had more time BUT, I must say the neighbours here are all very friendly ( as are most people we have found, in Perth.)
Ok, so now some of the other things about Perth.
Firstly...the ocean does not smell like the ocean.
In fact it does not have that typical "sea" smell at all!
Usually you can smell the sea before you SEE the sea but here, and on our journeys up north and down south, we have yet to inhale the fragrance of the ocean that I enjoy so much.
It's just not there...and it's weird!
It's not the smell of seaweed ( as some Perth people have suggested)....but the powerful salty smell, (and something else that I don't even know what it is), that you usually smell when you go to the beach.
The ocean DOES look much cleaner - bluer here though....Not many waves though...in fact in places it's dead calm. We often joke about the surf shops, wondering where on earth people go surfing but I guess there must be beaches with substantial waves somewhere.
The sand also on many beaches we have visited so far is quite grey/dirty looking. Gritty rather than smooth and soft...but again, we have not explored them all.
Coogee beach itself possibly has the greyest dirtiest looking sand of them all.
My father commented when he was here that it is a good thing that they have not built up the beachfront areas like in Sydney. Commercialized them I guess is what he means...(Though this is beginning to happen in a few places. )
I see the attempts to protect the dune areas on the beaches and personally I think this is a good thing, though with it comes the hazard of snakes and believe me, when you see the signs, believe them!
Just the other day my ten year old went running into a public toilet near the beach and nearly stepped on a snake!
Further down South from Coogee though they haven't left the beach fronts in their natural state and many industrial areas are quite an eyesore.
Why on earth would anyone build fertilizer factories right on a beach?
Perth seems quite devoid of natural "earthy" smells altogether....I guess it's just that I am used to the more tropical rainforesty smells of the earth back where we lived on the Central coast/Newcastle area.
The bush here (around Perth itself) is very ugly - scrubby. Stunted tree's and millions of grass tree's. Thorny prickly things too, much like what we have seen in the outback. (We have popped SO many bike tyres since we have been here... though on a positive note you don't feel like an old fart riding bikes here co's everyone does and there are plenty of nice flat tracks everywhere. Just don't ride on any sort of dirt or grass because of the thorns.)
BUT...we have yet to see any wildflowers- in the wild... - they may make up for it.
I'm sure there are more scenic bushy spots in WA but in the general vicinity of Perth it's pretty "scrubby".
There's no where near as many birds either....at least not here where we are living.
Also, one of the things I noticed as soon as we got here was this reddish brown staining - like rust, around many of the suburbs, on fences, footpaths, walls, even houses and tree's.
Apparantly this is due to the use of bore water? (Correct me if what I have been told is wrong.)
Against the pristine-ness of the public parks which really are nicely maintained (Perth is mostly quite free of litter and graffiti) this rusty looking staining really is quite noticable.
As I write this it is another wet and windy day here. One of the things I didn't read anywhere, or was told by anyone, is that Perth is Australia's windiest city.
I can believe it.
You really notice when there IS no wind.
Sidewards rain is quite a common sight, particularly here near the ocean. Umbrellas are useless.
The weather all over Australia seems pretty messed up at the moment but here in Perth it seems like from one moment to the next the weather is so changeable.
When it's sunny here it seems really glary..."bright". You seem to get sunburned really quickly here too. My skin has been much drier since we moved here and my sons eczema has flared up again after many years of being free of it.
They say Summers are much more bearable here though - less humidity. I am hoping this is true as of all the houses we looked at this one has no air conditioning.
I must say though the houses seem much more insulated. Perhaps it's the walls. There is no plasterboard where you can easily hammer a nail or picture hook in...they're all concrete rendered? - and chip really easily!
Oh, one very positive thing about the rentals here? They are much more pet friendly! We have two dogs and found it to be no drama at all to be allowed to have dogs while renting.
In fact Perth in general seems much more pet friendly. Lots of dog beaches and tonnes of people out and about with their pets. It's nice to see.
I don't drive but have found Perth really easy to get around using public transport.
The trains are kinda cramped but they come really regularly and on time! (Sydneys train system sucks!)
My only gripe is that there are no (or few- private schools have them I believe) school buses.
Kids have to catch public buses (if they CAN catch a bus to their school) and there are no free bus passes, though their fee is subsidised.
My husband whinges about " erth drivers"..."They can't merge!" he complains.
I don't know about that but people seem to drive much slower over here....perhaps due to the much more obvious police presence I have noticed on the roads?
The police over here seem to take a much more active role in the community.
On our drive from the airport we saw a cop car chasing another car, lights flashing, sirens blaring, only to pull the guy over, reef him out of his car, throwing him on the ground face down...knee in his back...handcuffs...
Whoa....quite a sight. Impressed my kids though.
The crime rate over here "feels" much higher...more break ins etc.
Seems to be a lot of "ghost town" suburbs during the day where both partners are working, making it a thieves paradise. Most of the houses seem to have alarms.
I definitely don't feel as "safe" here.
Just after we moved here there was that horrific rape/murder of that little girl in a shopping centre toilet and more recently on the news there has been mention of somebody trying to abduct children off the streets.
It just feels scarier I guess because Perth is so much smaller?
Shopping?
I find it a real pain that the shops aren't open on Sundays.
It's good in theory...forces you to have a family day or day of rest on Sunday but sometimes I just don't feel like doing grocery shopping on a Saturday and sometimes I really want to go clothes shopping on a Sunday, damn it! lol!
Not a biggie really though.
Speaking of shopping... grocery shopping is much more expensive here.
We were used to shopping at Aldi's ( where things ARE so much cheaper) so coming here we have really had to adjust our budget.
They say Aldi is coming here soon. I hope so!
Even clothes are more expensive and I have yet to find a real bargain at any of the markets so far, though the Canningvale markets seem to be the best so far.
Fremantle market is tiny, cramped and WAY overpriced with not very much to offer, imo.
Fremantle itself, I really like.
It reminds me a little of Paddington in Sydney, though without the sleazy-ness. More family oriented.
Yeah it's touristy....Lots of arty farty stuff....tonnes of places to eat (Fremantle always smells so delicious!) and you can sometimes see street performers around the market area which is kinda fun.
I like how they have preserved a lot of the historical buildings around Fremantle.
It's a huge contrast as far as many of the other really "brand new" looking areas.
I much prefer to go shopping around Fremantle than in the city itself.
I noticed somewhere on this board a thread about feeling isolated here in Perth?
I do.
Most of my family is back in NSW and it's a fair expense to fly a family of five back over there.
Having travelled fairly extensively around the Outback/central Australia, I must say that Perth kinda feels like a tiny city built in the middle of the outback.
Once you drive an hour or two out of Perth there is nothing....
It's very different from NSW where you can drive long distances but still feel as though you are "somewhere". I can't explain it better than that
In some ways it feels as though we are living in a suburbia much more "city like" than in Newcastle...but on the other hand, because of it's isolation it feels like a huge country town.
Quite strange really.
I sometimes look at the few tall buildings in the city of Perth and feel as though if we just drive a little further we'll come to the "real" city, lol!
On the whole, I miss Newcastle. It's scenic bushland, it's beaches, it's suburbs with tall tree's and just a tad more space between houses (in some areas)
We paid the price though for living there and that was a 2 hour commute each way to work for my husband.
People here just cannot imagine that kind of commute.
There are no jobs there though - not like here.
They are crying out for workers here.
My sixteen year old got a part time job after only two days and could still pick and choose as to where she wants to work.
Perth is certainly different from what I imagined.
As I said we still have a lot more exploring to do outside of the city itself.
My veiws may be slightly tainted because I do miss my parents, siblings and friends back East, but for what it's worth I thought I'd write them all down here for anyone who cares to read them in the event that they are looking for descriptions other than "Oh Perth is SO beautiful!" |
发表于 12-10-2010 18:39:31
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发表于 12-10-2010 21:47:10
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