FreeOZ论坛

标题: 集思广益来种菜 ~*~ 梅朵家的菜园子 ~*~ 大肚子暂停更新 [打印本页]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 09:51
标题: 集思广益来种菜 ~*~ 梅朵家的菜园子 ~*~ 大肚子暂停更新
我老家是在中国的南方农村，小时候下了学就跟着妈妈忙活菜地，喂猪喂鸡什么的，那时候最期盼的就是走出大山看看外面的世界，上了大学，去了上海，心想终于不用看天吃饭了，不想没在上海呆几年，就屁颠屁颠的跑到澳洲的大农村--咱有名的布里斯本，重新又拿起了锄头，养起了鸡。
老家的气候条件和布村很相似，所以种的菜大多都是以前跟着妈妈种的，以前是跟着妈妈打下手，从来也不会去想以后有朝一日会用得上，所以刚开始就凭着记忆去鼓捣，还经常上网收集资料，慢慢就鼓捣出一些体会，嗬嗬，现在就不自量力的跑到这里吹牛来了。先说明哈，下边分享的资料信息什么的不都是自己原创的，因为兴趣所致，一边自己鼓捣的过程中也收集过很多资料，然后结合自己的实践经验，现在整理出来的。
Freeoz是个藏龙卧虎的地方，有不对的地方，还请各位高手不吝指正，我这也算是抛砖引玉，大家也把自己的经验贡献出来哈。

索引：

种植篇：

播种时节早知道：http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/vegieguide/ 谢谢 ggtjll !

四季类 ============================================
发豆芽 I 谢谢 yearshappy !

发豆芽 II 谢谢 yearshappy !

发豆芽 III 谢谢 yeats_only !

豌豆苗
生菜

秋冬季节 ============================================
茼蒿
香菜
中国芹菜
油麦菜
芥菜类（芥菜，雪里蕻）
蚕豆谢谢 Greenhouse!

蒜苗/蒜苔/大蒜
西葫芦谢谢 yearshappy !

大葱
荷兰豆（豌豆，雪豆）I
荷兰豆（豌豆，雪豆）II 谢谢 yearshappy !

菠菜　　　　　　　　　
韭菜
豆角(Purple king, Borlotti, Stingless blue lake) 谢谢 yearshappy !

西洋菜谢谢泡沫 !

菜花，西兰花谢谢 Greenhouse!

乌塌菜谢谢 dqj34 和 sunnyclh1211

土豆I 土豆II 谢谢 Greenhouse!

白萝卜
眉豆（扁豆角）
radish 和北京快菜谢谢 nebulae!

莴笋（莴苣）
白菜
油菜

春季 ============================================
木耳菜& 空心菜
芋头
佛手瓜谢谢 yearshappy !

西红柿 I 西红柿 II 谢谢 Greenhouse!

西红柿 III
Beetroot 谢谢 Greenhouse!

花生谢谢 yearshappy !

豆薯（凉薯）
瓠瓜（葫芦瓜）
丝瓜
青椒谢谢 Greenhouse!

姜 I 谢谢 Greenhouse!

姜 II 谢谢 Winnie_Chen!

姜 III
人参菜谢谢binnie

辣椒
芦笋 I 谢谢 Greenhouse!

芦笋 II 谢谢 Greenhouse!

芦笋 III
红苋菜
茄子
黄瓜
短豆角（blue lake）谢谢 Greenhouse!

长豆角（豇豆）
玉米
秋葵谢谢 ozfarmer!

荠菜
茴香
苦瓜
节瓜（毛瓜）
冬瓜
鱼翅瓜（金丝搅瓜）
Lemon cucumber
（春天可以播种的蔬菜真是很多很多，我列举了一些，希望更多的朋友帮我一起完成！谢谢！）

夏季 ============================================
红薯 sweetpotato 谢谢 yearshappy !

梅朵种碗莲 =========================================
碗莲育苗
碗莲冒绿芽了
碗莲长根了

肥料篇：
农家肥
有机肥DIY

防虫篇：
资料I -- 用植物材料自制杀虫剂的方法介绍
资料II  -- Natural Pesticides --  Get rid of those nasties, naturally
资料III -- Homemade Natural Insect Killer
资料IV -- Essential information about controlling garden pests organically
资料V  --  A-Z of Garden Pests
我的体会
【DIY自製天然驅蟲除菌剂】                                     谢谢绮丽儿 !

图片解说　－－　菜园的益虫害虫以及防范方法谢谢 yearshappy ! 经典之作

防鸟

常识篇
连作/轮作 I
连作/轮作 II                         谢谢 yearshappy ! :good
有机蔬菜轮作原则及“土壤病”的防治
关于种子的采收和保存
蔬菜中英文名对照
一些小技巧
蔬菜的间作、套种 I             谢谢 Greenhouse! :good
蔬菜的间作、套种 II
蔬菜轮作、间作套种与混作中宜与不宜的种类
间作套种中应注意的问题

种子的购买
澳洲后院                               谢谢 Greenhouse! :good
ebay store - the seed collection
Kmart, BigW, Bunnings, Reject shop, Crazy Clarks，华人和越南人的菜店或超市等等都有种子卖；Reject shop和Crazy Clarks的种子相对要便宜些。

希望更多的朋友能参与进来，贡献自己的菜地实战经验，非常感谢！

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 5-9-2012 19:03 编辑 ]

作者: MillerYang 时间: 29-6-2011 09:53
这个主意好！

最好能结合季节。。。帮助吾等小白少走弯路

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 29-6-2011 09:59
期待下文...

作者: 么么公主 时间: 29-6-2011 10:00
支持

最好是能

1〉提供种子的购买办法
2〉合适播种
3〉种植方法，多长时间结果
4〉土地要求
5〉注意事项

作者: MillerYang 时间: 29-6-2011 10:09
标题: 回复 #4 么么公主的帖子
FreeOZ田园百科

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 10:13
先从当下可以种的菜说起吧，我在布村，相同的季节可能不同的城市气候温度什么的不尽相同，可以种的菜不一定都适用。
就从茼蒿说起。
茼蒿耐寒能力强耐热能力差，不宜在夏天种植，在布村现在是个好时候种植。
茼蒿是一、二年生草本，对土壤要求不严格，但最好播种前先施好基肥，这样能长得更好。茼蒿种子发芽适温为15~20ºC，在10ºC时仍可发芽，为让种子发芽整齐，播种时先将种子浸水一天，保持湿润状态放入5ºC的冰箱1天，播种不可过密，过密发出来的苗太挤会长不大，播种后覆盖一层薄细土，不能是块状大土。浇透水。植株长到5公分左右进行间苗，保持植株10公分左右，移栽前，也要施好基肥。茼蒿喜好湿润土壤，要注意浇水，保持土壤湿润。通常播种后一个半月，茼蒿就可以采摘了，如果施肥跟不上，采收时间就稍微晚些。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 29-6-2011 14:14 编辑 ]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 10:14
种子我就不具体说什么地方能买到了，大多数的华人超市都有卖的。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 10:36
香菜，也叫芫荽
香菜品种有大叶和小叶型。小叶耐寒性强，香味浓，适宜布村现在种植。发芽适温也是15~20ºC，香菜的播种是有些讲究的，香菜的种子是一粒双生的，要事先掰开成两半，然后水泡一个晚上，再播种，这样能很大提高发芽率，一般10~14天左右出苗。香菜不耐旱，经常保持土壤湿润。但种子还没发芽前，太多的水涝着也不好，种子会烂掉，这适用于大多数种子，要湿润但不能涝着。
香菜因生长期短，宜早间苗。一般应在出齐苗后7d左右间苗。香菜在播种后6―9周就可以采收了。
无论种什么菜之前，都要翻地整地，把大土块弄碎，建议先施好基肥。呵呵，这个往后我就不重复了。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 29-6-2011 14:32 编辑 ]

作者: 么么公主 时间: 29-6-2011 10:49

原帖由 MillerYang 于 29-6-2011 10:09 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

FreeOZ田园百科

不知道是不是搞个WIKI更好啊

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 10:54

原帖由 么么公主 于 29-6-2011 10:49 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

不知道是不是搞个WIKI更好啊

呵呵，闹着玩的，可别给我太大压力了。

这里还有很多高人呢，大家都来说说自己的经验！斑竹帮忙号召一下哦！

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 10:59
芹菜，在这里指的是中国芹菜，不是那种大个的西洋芹菜。华人超市可以买到种子。
芹菜属于耐寒性蔬菜，要求较冷凉湿润的环境条件，在高温干旱条件下生长不良。芹菜在不同的生长发育时期，对温度条件的要求是不同的。发芽期最适温度为15～20℃，低于15℃或高于25℃，则会延迟发芽的时间和降低发芽率。适温条件下，7～l0d就可发芽。芹菜在幼苗期对温度的适应能力较强，能耐-4～-5℃的低温。幼苗在2-5℃的低温条件下，经过10-20d可完成春化。幼苗生长的最适温度在15-23℃。芹菜在幼苗期生长缓慢，从播种到长出一个叶环大约要60d的时间。因此，多采用育苗移栽的方式栽培。定植至收获前这个时期是芹菜营养生长的旺盛时期。此期生长的最适宜温度为15-20℃。温度超过20℃则生长不良，品质下降，容易发病。芹菜成株能耐-7～-10℃的低温。秋芹菜之所以能高产优质，就是因为秋季气温最适合芹菜的营养生长。

芹菜种子发芽时喜光，有光条件下易发芽，黑暗下发芽迟缓。芹菜的生育初期，要有充足的光照，以使植株开展，充分发育，而营养生长盛期喜中等光强。因此，冬季可在温室、小拱棚和阳畦中生产，夏季栽培需遮光。长日照可以促进芹菜苗端分化花芽，促进抽薹开花；短日照可以延迟成花过程，而促进营养生长。

芹菜为浅根性蔬菜，吸水能力弱，对土壤水分要求较严格，整个生长期要求充足的水分条件。播种后床土要保持湿润，以利幼苗出土；营养生长期间要保持土壤和空气湿润状态，否则叶柄中厚壁组织加厚，纤维增多，甚至植株易空心老化，使产量及品质都降低。在栽培中，要根据土壤和天气情况，充分地供应水分。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 4-8-2011 12:31 编辑 ]

作者: yearshappy 时间: 29-6-2011 11:02

原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 29-6-2011 10:36 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

香菜，也较芫荽，香菜
香菜品种有大叶和小叶型。小叶耐寒性强，香味浓，适宜布村现在种植。发芽适温也是15~20ºC，香菜的播种是有些讲究的，香菜的种子是一粒双生的，要事先掰开成两半，然后水泡一个晚上，再播 ...

第一个不知道那是啥。
香菜我是一包籽分批散在花盆里，之后移栽到地上

，移种后缓了好一阵，这才绿油油些

作者: MillerYang 时间: 29-6-2011 11:03
标题: 回复 #10 格桑梅朵的帖子
加精华了。。。你自己看着办吧

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 11:07
标题: 回复 #13 MillerYang 的帖子
谢谢斑竹鼓励！可别让我自己唱独角戏哈，大家都来添砖加瓦！

作者: MillerYang 时间: 29-6-2011 11:16
标题: 回复 #14 格桑梅朵的帖子
俺不会种。。。只会点菜

花菜、菜花（估摸着应该是上海的卷心菜，北方叫包菜吧）、西红柿、黄瓜、冬瓜、雪豆、豆角、蒜苗/蒜苔。。。先低调点，不多点了

筒子们一起来分享啊，俺加分很慷慨的

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 11:24
油麦菜
油麦菜属菊科，是以嫩梢、嫩叶为产品的尖叶型叶用莴苣，叶片呈长披针形它的长相有点像莴笋的“头”，叶细长平展，笋又细又短。从血缘关系看，油麦菜属于叶用莴苣的一个变种——长叶莴苣，与人们熟悉的生菜相近，所以又名牛俐生菜。它的色泽淡绿、长势强健.抗病性、适应性强、质地脆嫩，口感极为鲜嫩、清香、具有独特风味，含有大量维生素和大量钙、铁、蛋白质、脂肪、维生素A、维生素B1、维生素B2等营养成分，是生食蔬菜中的上品，有“凤尾”之称。（百度百科）
油麦菜属耐寒性蔬菜，种子发芽的适宜温度为15～20℃。超过25℃或低于8℃不出芽。
播前将种子用水打湿放入纱布包中（可以用丝袜代替纱布

），在5℃左右(家用冰箱的冷藏室即可)的低温条件下放置2天后取出。一般10～15天出苗。按布村现在的气候，出苗后需要一个半月左右长出4~6片真叶，油麦菜有3－5片真叶时即可定植，定植后根据各种条件不同，约30～50天即可收获。
油麦菜是我家的最爱，它的病虫害也少，很值得推荐。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 29-6-2011 14:15 编辑 ]

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 29-6-2011 11:43

原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 29-6-2011 09:51 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

我老家是在中国的南方农村，小时候下了学就跟着妈妈忙活菜地，喂猪喂鸡什么的，那时候最期盼的就是走出大山看看外面的世界，上了大学，去了上海，心想终于不用看天吃饭了，不想没在上海呆几年，就屁颠屁颠的跑到澳洲 ...

我觉得不论种菜也好，养蜂也好，都有一种对于小时候或者过去的亲切记忆，一种情结吧。
我家是北方的，妈妈也前也种园子，但是那时候北方只有茄子，西红柿，豆角，辣椒，雪里蕻那有限的几样，没种几天，天气就变冷了。
南方就幸福多了。

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 29-6-2011 11:46

原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 29-6-2011 10:14 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

种子我就不具体说什么地方能买到了，大多数的华人超市都有卖的。

前几天刚买的种子，是在澳洲后院买的。 //www.aussiebackyards.com/

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 11:47
标题: 回复 #17 Greenhouse 的帖子
是啊，是一种情节，常让我梦回童年少年，那时候妈妈还在......
你也种了很多菜，要来分享哦！

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 11:51
有些东西是我以前上网收集到的资料经整理后码到这里的，所以看起来会比较“专业”，呵呵，但这些都是经过我自己实践验证过的。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 12:12
芥菜类
芥菜类的蔬菜,包括芥菜，大头菜，榨菜，雪里蕻，儿菜等。芥菜喜冷凉润湿，忌炎热、干旱，稍耐霜冻。
芥菜种子发芽最适宜温度15~25℃，此类蔬菜属秋播越冬作物，生育期长。
芥菜播种前两天要晒种，以增强种子的生活力，再用常温水浸种3～4小时，搓洗净种皮上的粘液后晾干即可播种。芥菜种子细小，苗床应特别精细整理，土块一定要弄细碎了。种子在出苗前应注意早晚浇水，一般一个礼拜左右出苗。幼苗出土后，遇旱要早晚淋水，保持土壤湿润。幼苗长到2～3片真叶时开始间苗。间苗定植后两个月这样就可以收获了。

我很喜欢芥菜类的蔬菜，丰收后不用马上都吃掉，可以腌制保存在冷藏室里，腌的方法很简单，洗好后洒上足够的盐，出水后把水倒出，在补洒上一些盐，放在冰箱里冷藏室就行了，可以放很长时间，到想吃的时候，拿出来浸泡水里，洗掉多余的盐分，然后攥掉水分，切成小段炖菜，炒菜都好吃。
或者腌成酸菜，呵呵，这个我正准备试验。中国南方的酸菜都是大叶芥菜腌的，那是我的大爱啊。
雪里蕻茎叶上有细软的毛刺，一般不宜鲜食，只作为腌菜和梅干菜供人食用。梅干菜很简单了，雪里蕻腌出水后，晒干就是梅干菜了。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 29-6-2011 14:16 编辑 ]

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 29-6-2011 12:29
标题: 蚕豆
我说说蚕豆吧（墨尔本地区），
豆科类植物都喜欢微碱性土壤。由于自身的根瘤菌可以产生并供应氮肥，所以种植豆科植物可以改善土壤质量。
从晚秋到早春都可以种植蚕豆(墨尔本是4－7月），无论这期间什么时候种植，收获时间基本一样，都在九月左右。
播种前两周，翻地松土时，建议每平米撒一把Lime(bunnings就有卖的），或者你不想提前做准备，也可以在种植时撒Dolomite二把/平米。目的是增加土壤中的钙和镁（豆类比较喜欢）。这方法适于所有的豆科植物。种植时，还可以再撒一两把Blood&Bones, 粪类肥料是不需要的。(注意，千万不能将Lime和其他肥料一起使用，不然那些肥就白上了）。
播种方法为直接播种，不要育苗移栽。
种子发芽后长到30公分左右时，如果家里有wood ash, 建议在根部撒一些。也可以卖一些potassium来上。
第一簇花开，未解以前，将植株的芯部掐掉，这样做果率要高一些。另外，如果植株分叉，只留底部分叉，高位的分叉长的再高，一般也不会结果实的。
想到的基本是这些。当然了，如果以上这些你什么也不做，蚕豆应该长的也不太差。

作者: 北极光 时间: 29-6-2011 12:30
怪不得这么有经验，原来还是妈妈教的。

支持楼主。过来学习来了。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 13:43
标题: 蒜苗/蒜苔/大蒜
蒜苗不耐热，适宜大蒜叶片生长的温度为12－20℃，温度过高，生长受抑制。所以很适合秋冬季节栽种。
大蒜好像一般不结种子，只能以蒜瓣进行无性繁殖。
翻好地，施好基肥后，把蒜瓣插到土里就好了，但方向要搞对了。蒜瓣外面的表皮不用拿掉。覆土1公分左右，水浇透。从播种到芽鞘出土长出叶片，約需10～20天。也可以先把蒜头湿润后，底部浸水里，等抽芽后载到土里。

dqj34的宝贵经验：我发现有两种蒜，白色皮的比较容易发出芽来，皮比较软。有颜色的（紫皮蒜）的皮比较厚，长根后不容易发芽，我试过了，泡出根来以后，用手轻轻帮忙撕开一点种下去会比不帮忙的快一些，但不帮忙人家自己也会出来的，不过晚一点。别着急，肯定没问题。 ---

大蒜幼苗能耐零下3～5℃的低温，生长适温14～20℃。幼苗主要靠种瓣供给养分；当养分被幼苗吸收利用后，蒜母开始干瘪，生产上称为“退母”或“化母”。此后幼苗开始靠根系吸收土壤养分，栽培上要有良好的水肥条件，以利幼苗健壮生长。
如果只想吃蒜苗的话，那就非常简单了，出苗后4个多星期这样，就可以剪茬了。

如果想吃蒜苔，那就需要一些耐心，追肥要跟上了。另外，蒜苗尽量少剪，不剪为好。如果实在想吃，可以挑着剪一点儿最外面的叶片，一定不要伤害中间的叶苗。如果只想吃蒜苗，无所谓蒜苔和蒜头，就像剪韭菜一样，剪3~4茬后就慢慢枯萎了，其实剪2茬后，蒜苗就长得越来越细了，香味也淡了。

出苗后50~60天，蒜苗抽苔，蒜苔是大蒜的花茎。大蒜通过一定的低温和长日照条件后，顶芽开始分化为花芽，最后抽出花茎即食用的“蒜苔”。蒜苔的发育除了温度、光照以外，如果蒜瓣太小、土壤瘦薄、播种晚、密度大和肥水不足，都会使植株叶片少、长势弱，使营养物质积累少，不利于花芽分化及蒜苔的发育而形成“无苔蒜”。

当蒜苔采收后，顶端优势解除，养分大量输送到鳞茎，蒜头开始迅速膨大。此期要求20-25℃的高温和12小时以上的日照。雨水过多和温度过低都不利于蒜头的生长，在栽培上要保持土壤湿润。采苔时要避免过度损伤叶片，尽量延长叶片寿命，保证光合产物的制造和输送。后期应停止灌水，防止散瓣。

大蒜对土壤要求不严，但以肥沃的粘壤土为好，土壤酸碱度以中性致微碱性为宜。大蒜苗期及蒜苔期对水分要求较高，需保持土壤湿润，蒜头充分肥大后水分宜少，可以使鳞茎充实，防止散瓣，提高品质，延长贮藏期。

当蒜苔花序的苞叶伸出叶鞘13－16厘米时即可采收。若不及时采收，蒜苔继续消耗养分，影响蒜头生长，而且蒜苔组织老化，降低质量和食用价值。可在蒜苔高出最后一片叶的叶鞘7厘米左右，上部尚未弯曲时采收，采收时应选睛天下午或阴天，待露水干后进行。具体方法采用穿刺抽提法，即用一根一头削成弧形且锋利的竹片，长约15厘米，当蒜苔抽出叶鞘6－10厘米时，左手提住蒜苔，右手拿竹片顺着蒜台由上而下划开三片叶，并用右手持竹片，向离地面5－7厘米的假茎部分垂直穿刺，左手把蒜苔慢慢抽出。此法的优点是功效高，不辣手，蒜苔质量好。在操作过程中，要注意蒜苔产量，更要注意质量，还要尽量保护功能叶不受损伤，达到蒜苔、蒜头双丰收。

蒜苔采后20～30天，叶片枯黄就可以收蒜头了。采收过早蒜头嫩、水分多、质量差、不耐贮藏。采收过迟，根及外皮腐烂，不易拔起，容易散落土中。采收时选晴天连植株拔起在田间晾晒3～4天，然后抖落泥土，及时将根剪掉，再捆编成束吊挂在通风处晾晒，应注意晒杆不晒头，以免烈日灼伤蒜头。晾晒时要翻动，使晾晒均匀，干燥后留在茎盘上的根呈米黄色，蒜头紧实，不易开裂。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 4-8-2011 12:33 编辑 ]

作者: yearshappy 时间: 29-6-2011 13:51
谢谢梅朵发起这个帖子，你提到西葫芦的问题，我就拿它来支持吧

当我去找 zucchini 的时候，我家旁边的店大多是买的像黄瓜形状的，
所以当看到 zucchini (Lebanese),这种我熟知的西葫芦籽，马上就买下来了。
而且这个品种号称，占地小。

全澳大利亚，这个品种是 All year around
6-10天出牙
5-7周成熟

最好直接种植，避免移苗
左右间距各70CM
一个洞最好播3-4个籽，出芽后留最强壮的2个
喜欢阳光和排水良好的土壤

[ 本帖最后由 yearshappy 于 29-6-2011 14:21 编辑 ]

作者: 羡慕嫉妒恨 时间: 29-6-2011 13:53
mark 一下

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 14:05
标题: 回复 #25 yearshappy 的帖子
谢谢支持！正在申请话题主持人，等申请到了给你加分。
图片再配合具体一些的文字就更好了！

作者: Jack_Chow 时间: 29-6-2011 14:09
是啊，看了半天。来图直接啊

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 29-6-2011 14:17
最爱看你们发的图片了，看的心痒痒的。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 14:18
标题: 回复 #28 Jack_Chow 的帖子
谢谢建议，争取配上图片。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 14:19
标题: 回复 #29 sunnyclh1211 的帖子
那也行动起来吧！

作者: Ozlet 时间: 29-6-2011 14:23
我想提个醒。咱也别把后院全都整成菜地。要注意美观呵。。。。。。。
免得邻居提意见。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 14:26
标题: 回复 #32 Ozlet 的帖子
都在fence里，邻居也会有意见么？菜地收拾好的话，可比草坪好看呢。

作者: MillerYang 时间: 29-6-2011 14:29
标题: 回复 #32 Ozlet 的帖子
菜地和菜园。。。就看怎么整了

作者: Ozlet 时间: 29-6-2011 14:35

原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 29-6-2011 14:26 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

都在fence里，邻居也会有意见么？菜地收拾好的话，可比草坪好看呢。

虽在自己家，如像游泳池不打理之类都会招邻居报怨的。我们也得尊重一下澳洲风俗习惯。
但如果菜地收拾好的话，应该没问题。

作者: Ozlet 时间: 29-6-2011 14:38

原帖由 MillerYang 于 29-6-2011 14:29 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

菜地和菜园。。。就看怎么整了

最好把美观当成一项重要的考核指标。

作者: yearshappy 时间: 29-6-2011 14:38

原帖由 Ozlet 于 29-6-2011 14:23 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

我想提个醒。咱也别把后院全都整成菜地。要注意美观呵。。。。。。。
免得邻居提意见。

我前两年前院后院都是草地，有花也干旱旱掉了，有点够了
今年辟出几个菜园，种菜种花　

，天保佑夏天时别旱别涝

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 29-6-2011 14:57

原帖由 Ozlet 于 29-6-2011 14:23 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

我想提个醒。咱也别把后院全都整成菜地。要注意美观呵。。。。。。。
免得邻居提意见。

菜地可以很美的。看看这个
[attach]182959[/attach]

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 29-6-2011 14:59
在墨尔本的ＴＸ有的应该能认出这是哪里。
[attach]182960[/attach]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 14:59
大葱
细分起来有好几个品种，什么小香葱，青葱，老葱，羊角葱......我这里先说通常所说的大葱，以后再说说小香葱，我也就只种过这两种，别的只是耳闻。
大葱按其葱白的长短，又有长葱白和短葱白之分。短葱白较长葱白类来说辣味淡一些。这两种大葱种植方法是一样的。
大葱最忌连作，民间有“辣对辣，必定瞎，葱韭蒜不见面”等说法，大葱不能与大蒜、韭菜、洋葱等蔬菜重茬。

大葱种子发芽始温为2～5℃，种子发芽适温是 15～25℃，1~2周发芽。大葱叶片生长最适温度为15～25℃，在10～20℃时葱白生长旺盛，有利于叶鞘积累养分。超过 25℃，则生长迟缓，形成的叶和假茎品质都较差。大葱可忍受-20℃的低温。
大葱最简单的栽培方法，就是买回来的葱，那种还带着根的，葱叶留着吃，把葱白处在5~6公分处剪下来它插到土里，露出一个小脑袋（2~3公分）就行了，如果带的根须太长的话最好还要减掉一些，太长的根须容易老，留下2~3公分这样的根就好了。

最多两三个礼拜又可以剪一茬吃了。第一茬的时间要长一些，因为要长根，如果施肥得当，以后每周都有收获。
我家前年种的是种子，今年偷懒了，现在的葱就是这样的，载在花盆里省事。但之前要先施好肥，这样葱才能长得好。
[attach]182961[/attach]

这种栽根来种大葱，比较容易成熟，剪上3~4茬之后就会抽薹开花了，但播种长出来的大葱能吃的茬数要比这种栽根的要多很多。开花后可以将种子留下重新播种，新种子发芽很快。
[attach]191879[/attach]

葱是雌雄同花，但异花授粉，最好是有蜜蜂来帮忙，如果实在没有，就需要人工辅助帮忙了。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 26-8-2011 15:45 编辑 ]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 15:01
标题: 回复 #39 Greenhouse 的帖子
我的梦想哈

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 15:03
今天累了，不码字了。大家顶上哈！

作者: yearshappy 时间: 29-6-2011 15:04

原帖由 Greenhouse 于 29-6-2011 14:59 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

在墨尔本的ＴＸ有的应该能认出这是哪里。
182960

很奇怪，这种怎样能保证菜地周边的草依然长得好？　
我几乎每天都要走一次，　周边的草已经出踏迹了，正捉摸是填石子还是石板呢

作者: 么么公主 时间: 29-6-2011 15:07
美啊

这就是我30岁后的梦想生活啊。。。。

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 29-6-2011 15:09

原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 29-6-2011 15:01 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

我的梦想哈

一开始，这也是我Gardening的终极目标！后来我发现，他们多少有点儿骗人，唉，就算他们的出发点是好的，就原谅了吧。

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 29-6-2011 15:16
再来一个，有的同学看ABC Gardening,应该也能看出这是哪里。

[attach]182964[/attach]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 15:19
标题: 回复 #46 Greenhouse 的帖子
这个更实用可行些。

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 29-6-2011 15:41

原帖由 yearshappy 于 29-6-2011 15:04 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

很奇怪，这种怎样能保证菜地周边的草依然长得好？　
我几乎每天都要走一次，　周边的草已经出踏迹了，正捉摸是填石子还是石板呢

我家草坪也是这样的。后来我一气之下，用weedkiller把菜地边上的草给消灭了。我打算弄mulch. 建议你不要用石子。个人感觉，有时候土掉到石子上，日积月累，就土不是土，泥不是泥，还有石子在里面。但是石板应该没有问题，可以清理。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 15:46
荷兰豆
呵呵，今天最后一篇。荷兰豆也是我的大爱，去年收成不错。今年种了另外一种豆（眉豆，后面有介绍的）了，所以从网上找了一张图片来替代。
荷兰豆为耐寒蔬菜，荷兰豆不耐热。4℃时种子开始缓慢发芽，在16℃～18℃时4～6天可出苗。幼苗可耐-6℃低温，茎蔓生长适温为15℃～20℃，开花结荚期适温为15℃～18℃，超过26℃豆荚品质差，产量低。结荚期要求长日照和较低的温度，忌高温。荷兰豆的生长周期为95至130天，它对光照和水分的需要较为强烈，延长光照可提早开花，整个生育期都要求较高的空气湿度和土壤水分，但不耐涝，对土壤条件要求不严格，土壤适宜ＰＨ值为５．５～６．７，ＰＨ值低于５．５，根瘤菌的发育受抑制，因此在偏酸性的土壤，种植前，现在土里撒些石灰，bunnings有卖的，小包装的lime专门给蔬果用的。苗期需要一定的氮肥，生长中期应注意施用磷肥促进根瘤菌生长。自身根瘤还有固氮作用，但仍以疏松且有机质含量较高的土壤为宜。

荷兰豆切忌连作，至少4至5年轮作。荷兰豆按其茎的生长习性可分为矮生、半蔓生和蔓生三种类型。

荷兰豆蔓生种和半蔓生种攀缘性较强，需进行搭架栽培。当幼苗长到5至6片真叶约30厘米时，卷须出现时要及时搭架引枝上架，使荷兰豆的蔓向上攀缘生长，同时要进行绑蔓上引，行间保持通风透光。荷兰豆苗长到搭架可采用竹竿插单排立架，并要人工引蔓上架或绑蔓。也可用木桩搭架，即在垄的两侧各插一根木桩，插实，顶端用线绳对着绑好，每隔2米绑一对杆，然后在垄的每侧距地20厘米的地方用结实的线绳在每根立杆上缠绕一周，直至把整根垄两侧都绑完，使荷兰豆苗保持在两侧的绑线内。待荷兰豆苗逐渐长高时，两侧绑线以20厘米的间距逐渐向上绑线，始终保持荷兰豆的茎在两侧的绑线内。

荷兰豆苗期应适当抑制肥水，开花时及时灌水，在整个开花结果期注意适时浇水，并追肥2～3次。

荷兰豆的荚果为自下而上逐步成熟，常常是基部豆荚已开始采收，而上部却正在开花刚结荚，分期分批及时采收。一般花谢后8至10天，豆粒刚开始发育且尚未膨大时进行采收最好，不可过早或过迟。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 13-7-2011 10:22 编辑 ]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 15:53
标题: 回复 #48 Greenhouse 的帖子
我家的草倒是长得很好啊，我还经常抱怨它们跟菜抢养分呢。

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 29-6-2011 15:57
标题: 回复 #31 格桑梅朵的帖子
种了几盆不成功，经各位神农一说才知道原来冬天不能种的说，正在期待春天来临继续努力！

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 16:02
标题: 回复 #51 sunnyclh1211 的帖子
哈哈..........神农..........我第一反应就是神农架的野人

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 29-6-2011 16:05
等我的阳台长出第一棵植物的时候，我一定拍照传上来。

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 29-6-2011 16:06
我有二十个大小盆，不知道什么时候能填满。

作者: 么么公主 时间: 29-6-2011 16:08

原帖由 sunnyclh1211 于 29-6-2011 16:05 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

等我的阳台长出第一棵植物的时候，我一定拍照传上来。

注意日照，植物结果的，开花的都喜阳光的。

我家楼顶还有棵葡萄，比楼下的长得还好。。。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 16:10
标题: 回复 #54 sunnyclh1211 的帖子
从最简单的种起-- 大葱和大蒜

如果你在布里斯本，我上边列举的都能种！

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 29-6-2011 16:11 编辑 ]

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 29-6-2011 16:12
冰箱里面刚好有一扎葱，是不是把它切了，剩下三厘米的头埋到土里就行了？现在能种吗，放冰箱后还能活吗？

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 29-6-2011 16:13
我再悉尼，现在的温度是12-19度。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 16:14
标题: 回复 #57 sunnyclh1211 的帖子
没问题的！只要有根就行，剪下4公分左右的头，把它插到土里，露出一个小脑袋就行了。
根须太长的话最好还要减掉一些，太长的根须容易老，留下2~3公分这样的根就好了。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 29-6-2011 16:18 编辑 ]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 29-6-2011 16:16
标题: 回复 #58 sunnyclh1211 的帖子
这个温度的话，上面说得都能种的！我每一种都注明发芽适温了，对照找找看吧。

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 29-6-2011 16:22
晚上就回去种葱，希望这次不要再死掉。三周前种的蒜，我想现在应该挖出来了，就不浪费水了。
用碗泡些蒜头，发芽后重新种上应该不会再有什么差错了吧。

作者: 么么公主 时间: 29-6-2011 17:58

原帖由 sunnyclh1211 于 29-6-2011 16:22 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

晚上就回去种葱，希望这次不要再死掉。三周前种的蒜，我想现在应该挖出来了，就不浪费水了。
用碗泡些蒜头，发芽后重新种上应该不会再有什么差错了吧。

我觉得你水大了，植物最怕伤根，水大就会把植物根腐烂。

而且悉尼最近老下雨，你要干透才能浇水哦

作者: Ozlet 时间: 30-6-2011 07:48

原帖由 Greenhouse 于 29-6-2011 14:59 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

在墨尔本的ＴＸ有的应该能认出这是哪里。
182960

真漂亮，的確。

作者: Ozlet 时间: 30-6-2011 08:01

原帖由 yearshappy 于 29-6-2011 15:04 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

很奇怪，这种怎样能保证菜地周边的草依然长得好？　
我几乎每天都要走一次，　周边的草已经出踏迹了，正捉摸是填石子还是石板呢

原來草地也是要維護的。
剛搬來時我的草地也有些枯，後來我灑了些專門餵草的肥料。現在草長的佷好的。

作者: HONEYWANG 时间: 30-6-2011 08:16
楼主油麦菜籽找不到哪里有卖啊！求助在哪里买到的？英文名字是怎么写的？

作者: binnie 时间: 30-6-2011 08:51
这个帖子好，进来学习。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 09:07

原帖由 HONEYWANG 于 30-6-2011 08:16 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

楼主油麦菜籽找不到哪里有卖啊！求助在哪里买到的？英文名字是怎么写的？

18楼，Greenhouse 提供了一个网址，那里可以找到很多亚洲蔬菜的种子
你看看 http://www.aussiebackyards.com

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 30-6-2011 09:09 编辑 ]

作者: 么么公主 时间: 30-6-2011 09:10
大家好早啊，我还没起呢。。。。。。。。。。。。。。

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 09:12

原帖由 么么公主 于 29-6-2011 17:58 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

我觉得你水大了，植物最怕伤根，水大就会把植物根腐烂。

而且悉尼最近老下雨，你要干透才能浇水哦

有可能的。

作者: Dreamhouse 时间: 30-6-2011 09:13
以前在洛杉矶
我们也种菜

觉得那是一个非常好的嗜好
因为你的生活每一天都充满了乐趣与期盼。

谢谢楼主的分享。

作者: 么么公主 时间: 30-6-2011 09:34
不知道时间长了会不会烦呢???

要洗衣做饭,还要阳花种菜,带孩子,擦地板,买嘎的.............还要赚钱........

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 30-6-2011 10:00
标题: 回复 #69 格桑梅朵的帖子
我天天浇水，就怕不发芽，结果全部都没长出来。
昨天把葱插上了。

作者: MillerYang 时间: 30-6-2011 10:07
筒子们继续盖楼！

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 10:15
这里来说说肥料。

有机肥当然是首选，Bunnings有卖牛的，鸡的，羊的。
鸡粪含氮磷突出。适合花芽分化时期，当然也不是说其他时期使用就没效果，而是来比较三者的突出区别。牛粪属于冷性肥料，一般不会出现烧根的情况。因为牛粪发酵时产生的热量很少。牛粪氮磷钾的含量也相对少些，因此，如果地栽的话牛粪用起来几乎可以不经过发酵就使用，但还是经过发酵之后，肥料的功效才会真正的发挥出来。羊粪其实在这三者之中是肥效最大最均衡最持久的，如果发酵不完全或者稍微量大就容易出现烧根现象。其实我们种菜只为了好玩和供自家吃的，不是为了卖钱，所以肥料找最便宜的就行了，不用深究三者的区别。

我不提倡用化肥，但是如果知道自家的土地特别缺点什么，而某种植株又特别需要的，比如瓜果类蔬菜，在接挂果的时候就很需要钾，也可以有针对性的补充。这就看情况了。

关于各种农家肥网上看到一篇介绍：
http://www.370533.com/hs05.97.htm
家畜粪尿是指家畜(猪、鸡、马、牛、羊等)的家禽动物排泄物,是有机蔬菜生产理想的肥料。为使家畜粪尿在有机蔬菜生产中充分发挥作用,必须了解其成分、特性及科学的积存和使用。这样才能更好的利用家畜禽粪的肥料特性，作用于植物营养。
　　1. 家畜粪尿的成分分析
　　家畜粪和排出的禽畜尿的成分不同。粪是饲料经过牲畜的消化器官消化后没有被吸收的残余物,主要是半腐解的植物性有机物质,成分是蛋白质(包括蛋白质的分解产物)、脂肪、糖类、纤维素、半纤维素、木质素、有机酸、胆汁、叶绿素、酶以及各种无机盐等。尿是饲料中的营养成分被消化吸收进入血液经新陈代谢后排出的部分,成分比较简单,全部是水溶性物质,主要有尿素、尿酸、马尿酸以及钾、钠、钙、镁等无机盐类。各种家畜粪的养分总含量,猪粪、羊粪较多,马粪次之,牛粪最少。畜粪中含有机质和氮素较多,磷和钾较少。畜尿中含磷很少。各种家畜每年的排泄量也相差甚大,牛的排泄量最大,羊最少,马、猪介于其间。
　　2. 家畜粪尿的特性
　　各种家畜粪尿除养分含量有差异外,由于家畜的饲料成分、饮食习惯、消化能力等的差别,粪质粗细和含水量的不同,所以畜粪的分解速度、发热量以及微生物种类等也有差异。
　　①猪粪。猪的饲料范围广而多样化,一般比其他家畜的饲料精细,养分含量比较高。猪粪的质地比较细,碳氮比较窄,且含有较多的氨化微生物,一般较易分解,分解后形成的腐殖质也比较多。但猪粪中含纤维素分解菌较少,粪中难消化的残渣分解慢。为加速猪粪分解,可混合少量马粪,用以接种纤维素分解菌,可促其分解,提高肥效。
　　②牛粪。牛是反刍动物,消化力强,对饲料咀嚼较细,食物在胃中反复消化,因而牛粪质地致密。牛饮水较多,牛粪中含水也多,故通气性差,分解缓慢,发酵温度低,肥效迟缓,故称牛粪为“冷性肥料”。牛粪中养分含量是家畜粪中数量最低的,尤其是氮素含量。因为氮素含量少,碳氮比较宽,所以分解缓慢。为加速其分解,可将鲜粪稍晾干,再加入马粪混合堆积,如能混入磷矿粉,则质量更高。也可接种纤维素分解菌,促其分解,提高肥效。
　　③马粪。马对饲料的咀嚼不如牛细致,消化力也不及牛强。马粪中纤维素含量高,粪的质地粗,疏松多孔,水分易蒸发,含水分少,粪中含有大量高温纤维素分解菌,能促进纤维素分解,因此,马粪腐熟较快。马粪在堆积中,发出的热量多,最高可达60～70℃,常称为“热性肥料”。马粪可作温床的酿热材料,可提高苗床温度,促使幼苗提早移栽。由于马粪质地粗,对改良土壤也有显著效果。驴粪、骡粪也有类似马粪的特性。
　　④羊粪。羊也是反刍动物,对饲料咀嚼细,但饮水少,所以羊粪质地细密而干燥。羊粪是家畜粪中养分(尤其有机质和全氮)含量最高的一种,分解时散发的热量比马粪低,但比牛粪高,易于发酵分解,也属“热性肥料”。羊粪宜与含水分较多的猪粪、牛粪混合堆积。
　　此外,家畜粪中的兔粪,其氮、磷、钾含量比羊粪高,性质与羊粪很相似,也是一种优质高效的有机肥料。各种家畜尿的性质都相似,一般均呈碱性反应,但含有不同数量的尿酸和马尿酸。几种家畜尿相比,只有牛尿分解较慢,肥效迟缓,不宜直接单独施用,其他3种均可较快分解。
　　3. 家畜粪尿的积存方法
　　家畜粪尿的积存过程虽是一个营养成分变化腐熟的过程,但也容易造成养分挥发损失,积存时一定要采取保肥措施。常见的积存方法有:
　　①垫圈积存。在畜舍内用干土、秸秆、炭灰、草皮土或草炭进行垫圈,吸收粪尿,减少臭气,保持干燥清洁的环境,有利于家畜的健康。粪土比一般以1∶3～4为宜。畜栏垫圈要掌握勤起勤垫的原则,起出的畜粪掺入人粪尿再加1%～2%的过磷酸钙和少量泥土,进行圈外混合堆积,外层糊封泥土,可起到腐熟保肥的作用。
　　②冲圈积存。适合于集体饲养的畜群和大型养猪场。冲圈畜舍的地面多用水泥或砖砌成,并向一侧倾斜,以利于粪尿液流入外面所设的粪池。畜舍内每天用水把粪便冲洗到舍外的粪池里,在嫌气条件下沤成水粪。粪池要搭棚加盖,或覆盖秸秆、青草等,以减少氨气挥发损失。粪水也可引入沼气池作为沼气发酵用。
　　③垫圈冲圈结合。冬季最好采用垫圈,其他季节采用冲圈,这样既有利于家畜的卫生,又能积制较好的肥料。冲圈肥可做追肥,垫圈肥可做基肥。
　　4. 家畜粪尿的使用方法
　　猪粪尿有较好的增产和改土效果,适用于各种土壤和作物。腐熟好的猪粪尿可用做追肥,但没有腐熟的鲜粪尿不宜做追肥。没有腐熟的鲜猪粪尿施到土壤以后,经微生物分解会放出大量二氧化碳,并产生发酵热,消耗土壤水分,大量施用对作物种子、幼苗、根系生长均有不利影响。此外,生猪粪下地还会导致土壤有限的速效养分被微生物消耗,发生“生粪咬苗”现象。
　　马粪腐熟后适用于各种土壤和作物,用做基肥、追肥均可。由于马粪分解快,发热大,一般不单独施用,主要用做温床的发热材料。
　　牛粪尿多用作基肥,适于各种土壤和农作物。
　　羊粪尿同其他家畜粪尿一样,可用做基肥、追肥,适用于各种土壤和作物。羊粪由于较其他家畜粪浓厚,在砂土和黏土地上施用均有良好的效果。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 10-8-2011 11:51 编辑 ]

作者: 么么公主 时间: 30-6-2011 10:17
学习了...

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 10:18
除了上边说的各种农家肥，还可以自己堆肥，厨房的下脚料，落叶，除的草，豆渣等等都是很好地堆肥材料。
网上有很多关于堆肥的信息，下面是我以前查到的资料，觉得是比较好的一篇，直接就粘贴过来，大概看看就会了，也可以到这个网站 http://www.ipswich.qld.gov.au/residents/waste/composting/
===========================================================================
Composting...Did you know?
Approximately half of our domestic rubbish consists of kitchen and garden waste.
The breakdown of this organic waste makes excellent compost, a natural fertiliser for our gardens.
Composting has been used in crop production for over 4000 years!
Composting reduces the amount of organic waste currently ending up in landfill and helps extend the life of the landfill.
Using compost on your garden will help to improve your garden by avoiding the use of chemical fertilisers.
If you compost you are helping improve the quality and structure of the soil.
Composting will also save you money and most importantly help the environment as well!!

Composting Problems
Problem: Foul Odours
Cause : Heap is too wet
Solution : Add dry leaves.
                           Turn the heap with a fork to improve drainage.
                           Add 250g of garden lime and cover a loose heap during rain or keep the lid on your compost bin.

Problem: Slow Decay
Cause : Not enough nutrients
                           Not enough air
                           Not enough water
                           Too cold in winter
Solution: Add 250g of blood and bone or another nitrogen-based fertiliser.
                           Turn the heap regularly with a fork to aerate it.
                           Moisten the heap with water or use tea, teabags or coffee grounds.
                           Cover the heap with insulation material (such as hessian or carpet).

Problem: Maggots
Cause : Meat, seafood, fats or faeces in the compost
Solution : Remove the cause and cover the maggots with lime.
                           Add soil to the top of the heap and turn the heap the next day.

Feeding a Compost
Many household wastes can be added to your compost including:
- vegetable and food scraps
- fallen leaves in layers
- tea leaves, teabags and coffee grounds
- vacuum cleaner dust
- grass cuttings and dead flowers
- egg shells and stale bread
- old newspaper and cardboard (wet)
- grass cuttings and garden waste
- sawdust and wood shavings

What should I NOT put in my compost?
- Meat (including bones) and dairy products (these tend to attract vermin)
- Diseased plants
- Metals, plastic and glass
- Fat, oil or salt
- Magazines
- Large branches and weeds with bulbs

What do I do with my compost?
Compost is ready to use when it has a crumbly appearance and smells like earth and the material has all decomposed. The compost can be used as mulch on garden beds and sprinkled around potted plants. The compost is a natural and nutrient-rich fertiliser that beats any chemical fertiliser.

The best news is that using compost reduces the rubbish going into your refuse bin and saves space in the landfill. Your garden and the environment will thank you!

How to Start Composting
First things first...composting is simple.

Although composting can be done in open heaps, it may be better to use a bin or enclosure. This will keep pests and vermin away from your compost and keep the compost together, tidy and sheltered from the weather.

You can buy a commercially made compost bin from hardware stores or garden nurseries. Many compost bins are black or dark green and this helps absorb and trap heat from the sun, which speeds up the decomposition process.

Home-made composts are also a good option. Use bricks, blocks or timber to construct a compost enclosure. An old rubbish bin also makes an excellent DIY compost. Place it upside down on the soil. Cut the bottom out of the bin and place the lid over this hole. Access the compost by lifting off the bin lid...as simple as that!!!

What a Compost Needs
To make sure your compost is working at its best, it needs a proper mix of the following ingredients:
- Carbon
- Nitrogen
- Oxygen (air)
- Water
The organic waste in the compost is broken down by microbes (bacteria) as well as by the action of larger creatures, like worms, ants and other soil insects. The key to keeping a good compost is to provide a healthy environment and nutrition for the rapid decomposers, the compost bacteria.

Composts work best if there is more carbon than nitrogen in the pile (between 25:1 to 30:1).

Ingredients with higher carbon content include:
- dry, straw-type material
- leaves
- sawdust and wood chips
- paper and cardboard

Ingredients with high nitrogen content include:
- grass clippings
- dead weeds, flowers, plants
- manure
- fruit and veggie scraps

Carbon provides cellulose needed by the bacteria to change into sugars and heat. Nitrogen provides the most concentrated protein allowing the compost bacteria to survive.

The essential requirements for a happy and healthy compost are nutrients, air and water.

In addition, layering of different compost material will make a well-balanced compost. Start with a layer of branches and twigs, then add a layer of garden clippings, leaves or dead flowers and then add layers of other compost material.

The simplest way to keeping a compost healthy is to remember A-D-A-M!

Air: regularly turning your compost with a fork, allowing air to enter.
Diversity: adding a range of different organic materials to your compost.
Aliveness: encouraging worms and organisms from the soil to enter and live in your compost and assist in the breakdown of material.
Moisture: occasionally adding some water to your compost to ensure it is kept damp.

How Composting Works
Composting is the natural breakdown of organic material into a loose and ‘earth-like' substance. A compost bin (or similar) confines the organic material and helps control conditions so that breakdown is accelerated and optimised.

Earthworms and other micro-organisms/bugs in the soil can help the composting process by assisting in the breakdown process.

====================================================

现在很多人都自己榨豆浆喝，豆渣如果直接扔掉了就太可惜了。豆渣含有丰富的氮素，是很好的堆肥材料。
如果住在unit没有条件堆肥，也不要紧，找一个容器，比如大可乐瓶子，放里面然后在太阳底下晒，就可以使其充分发酵腐化当肥料用了。
还有，蛋壳也可以做肥料，把打碎的蛋壳混合土壤，具有通气、排水作用，亦能分解少量磷肥及石灰质，或者直接就扔堆肥桶里。
淘米水也是很好的肥料，但也是最好放在太阳底下晒几天发酵后比较好。

我所知道的关于肥料现在就这些了，欢迎大家补充哦！

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 10-8-2011 11:48 编辑 ]

作者: 么么公主 时间: 30-6-2011 10:23
这样的日子只要有妈妈,孩子,LG就足够了

作者: evergreen 时间: 30-6-2011 10:33
看了半天，我觉得很难弄懂啊，着急

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 10:39

原帖由 evergreen 于 30-6-2011 10:33 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

看了半天，我觉得很难弄懂啊，着急

指的是什么地方难懂？

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 10:49
菜园里最头疼的事，就是虫害了。尤其是夏天的时候，每当看到蝴蝶在院子里飞，就头大。特别是雨过天晴的时候，蝴蝶就不知道从哪里呼啦呼拉的出来了，到处在菜叶子上产卵。如果我不种菜的话，我倒是挺喜欢那些漂亮的小精灵，五颜六色的。但看到它们的幼虫在蚕食我的青菜的时候，我就恼火了。虫害太厉害的时候，忍无可忍我也喷了几次农药，如果还可以忍受，我就只能吃它们吃剩的了。
针对不同的虫害，Bunnings可以找到相应的农药，药瓶子上都画有可杀灭的害虫。这里就不细说了。据说澳洲的农药对人是无害的，但还是心有余悸，能不用还是不用。
好羡慕Winnie_Chen的菜园子http://www.freeoz.org/ibbs/thread-919667-1-1.html，很精致不说，一点虫害都不闹的。真是让我好生羡慕！我家的菜园子怎么就那么吸引蝴蝶呢？

我在网上搜索过很长时间，看有没有无公害的防虫灭虫办法，找到过一些，也尝试过一些方法，看我慢慢道来。
先粘贴找到的资料吧，有些资料时间长了，也忘了出处了，见谅。

防虫篇资料I
用植物材料自制杀虫剂的方法介绍
利用植物材料如一些蔬菜、树叶等自制杀虫剂，可杀死蚜虫、粉虱、红蜘蛛等多种害虫，防治效果较好；而且安全无副作用，不污染环境；植物材料来源广，还能大量节省防治费用。现推荐一些简易方法。
　　1、将大蒜瓣捣成泥，加等量水搅匀，取原液再加水50倍喷雾，随配随用，对蚜虫、红蜘蛛有很好的防治效果。
　　2、取新鲜大葱2--3公斤捣烂成泥，加15--17公斤水，提取溶液喷洒，可防治蚜虫和软体害虫。
　　3、取20克葱头鲜茎，捣烂后加水1--1.5公斤，浸泡24小时后过滤，用滤液喷洒植株，对蚜虫、红蜘蛛有较好的防治效果。
　　4、取新鲜韭菜1公斤，捣烂成糊状，加400--500克水浸泡，取滤液喷洒，能杀灭蚜虫。
　　5、选用辣味较浓的辣椒切细磨碎，按辣椒与水1：20的比例在锅内煮沸10--15分钟，冷却后取滤液喷洒，可有效防治蚜虫、地老虎、红蜘蛛等害虫。气温越高效果越好。
　　6、将新鲜黄瓜蔓1公斤，加少许水捣烂滤去残渣，用滤出的汁液加3--5倍水喷洒，防治菜青虫和菜螟虫效果好。
　　7、摘取新鲜多汁的苦瓜叶片，加少量清水捣烂，取其滤液，每公斤滤液加入1公斤石灰水，调和均匀后用于植株幼苗根部的浇灌，防治地老虎有特效。
　　8、将南瓜叶加少量水捣烂，榨取原汁。以两份原汁加3份水的比例稀释，再加入少量肥皂液，搅匀后喷雾，杀灭蚜虫效果在90%以上。
　　9、将新鲜丝瓜捣烂，加20倍水搅拌，取其滤液喷雾，可用来防治菜青虫、蚜虫、红蜘蛛及菜螟虫等害虫。
　　10、取新鲜番茄叶捣烂成浆，加2--3倍清水，浸泡5--6小时，取其清液喷洒，可防治红蜘蛛。
　　11、取20--30个柑桔皮研碎，放置在密封的容器中，加5倍水浸泡一昼夜，过滤后的浸出液可有效杀死果树和其他农作物的蚜虫。浸出液的浓度越大，杀虫效果也越好，一般要连喷两次以上。
　　12、将烟叶撕碎，加10倍开水浸泡，待水不烫手时揉搓烟叶，倒出浸液，重新加等量开水，如此3次。最后将4次共40倍烟叶重量的水混合过滤，用滤液喷雾。
　　13、将苦楝树根皮或苦楝树叶、果捣烂成泥，对水10倍煮两小时过滤，取滤液加5倍水搅匀后喷施，可消灭蚜虫。对毛虫、稻螟和稻飞虱等害虫也有效。
　　14、夹竹桃枝叶1份，加水20份，煮20分钟，过滤后喷洒可杀死蚜虫和粉虱。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 30-6-2011 10:53 编辑 ]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 10:52
防虫篇资料II

Natural Pesticides -- Get rid of those nasties, naturally

Natural Pesticides that deter the bad bugs but don't harm the good bugs. This will be one of your challenges when you start your Organic Veggie Patch. Keeping the vegetable garden pests and diseases away is not as hard as you may think.

If you have a small garden these are very easy to manage but you're going to enjoy your organic vegetable gardening sooo much that your garden will get bigger and bigger...

Other methods apart from natural pesticides to deter the pests include: Companion Planting, introducing good bugs like lady bugs, covering up young plants (with an empty soft drink bottle with top and bottom removed) or covering vulnerable plants with netting.
Each plant is different so keep an eye on your veggie patch

I have some simple natural pesticides here for you to help with these common problems.

White Oil - sticks to bugs and suffocates them so it's a great spray to have on hand.
To make your own White Oil:
- 1 cup of vegetable or white mineral oil
- 1.5 cups of water
- 2 teaspoons of dishwashing liquid

Neem Oil - Insects do not like this one. You can buy products already pre-mixed or you can buy the oil and use for many things. I'm using my neem oil for the garden, to help my dog and horse who both have bad itches and as a nit repellent for my daughter's hair. Versatile product this one and well worth checking out.
This site on Rhubarb Pests shows there are many options for protecting your veggies from pests and diseases.

A FEW COMMON PESTS
Aphids - nasty little green bugs that LOVE roses as well as some vegies. Warm soapy water or White Oil will get rid of these. Lady bugs love to eat them so look after them if you see them in your garden.

Mealy Bugs - White hairy little things, found on back of the leaves - these little guys will suck the life out of your plant. These are usually found on houseplants. If you find you have these then isolate the plant (not near the veggie patch though!!). Wash down the plant with a mix of 1 part alcohol, 1 part water and some dishwashing liquid. You may need to do this again a few days later.
Snails - Make a beer trap. Put a small amount of beer in the bottom of a container and dig into the soil. The snail will go in, get drunk, drown and .... Let's just say he'll go to a better place! If this doesn't work for you - visit the garden in the morning and simply pick them up (great job for the kids!)
Caterpillars - The hungry little caterpillar! will eat the leaves on your plants - pretty easy to know when they're about. Others will live inside your fruit. Pick them off if you see them and give them to the chickens for a treat. Use a garlic spray if you need to spray. If you see the moths about then catch them in a butterfly net or use netting over your plants. If you notice plants that get attacked by caterpillars often (like my Pak Choy at the moment) try to plant them away from your other plants so you can isolate the problem, then if you have to spray, you aren't spraying your whole garden. Get the kids involved with helping get rid of these guys.

And there's more... If you see your plants suffering then have a look to see if you can see any bugs on the plant or flying around. Don't forget to look under the leaves. You can do a search for the particular plant ie "tomatoes" "pests" this will give you more thorough information on the specific pests that are likely to attack your veggies.

If plants are looking yellow, it may not be pests, it could be a soil problem, too much or too little water or a disease. A good garden center could also help - take a plant sample into the store in a plastic bag.

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 30-6-2011 10:53 编辑 ]

作者: MillerYang 时间: 30-6-2011 10:55
信息量好大。。。得找个时间好好消化才行

作者: evergreen 时间: 30-6-2011 10:55
标题: 回复 #79 格桑梅朵的帖子
都很难啊，什么基肥，温度啊，菜籽还要浸泡。。。看来我要好好学习，从头做起

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 10:55
防虫篇资料III

Homemade Natural Insect Killer

By Faith McGee, eHow Contributor
updated: December 30, 2010

Homemade natural insect killer can give you the peace of mind that you are not spraying hard-to-pronounce chemicals around your garden and home. It is especially critical to use non-toxic insect killer if you have pets and children playing in the yard. Natural insect killers work by drying out the waxy surface on bugs. Timing is also an essential element when using natural insect killers. You should choose a time in the morning when there is no threat of rain to wash off the natural pesticide to ensure that it comes in contact with bugs.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions
Things You'll Need:
Bucket
Vegetable oil
Dishwashing soap
Spray bottle
Towel

1 Give your ornamental plants a good spraying the day before applying pesticide to remove excess pests.

2 Mix in a bucket 1 gallon of water, 2 tbsp. of vegetable cooking oil, and 2 tbsp. of a de-greasing dishwashing liquid.

3 Pour the mixture into a water bottle and save the rest in a sealable container.

4 Dry off any wet leaves of the plant with a towel. Spray the mixture, so that it covers the crown of the plant down to 3 inches from the ground.

5 Lift the leaves of the plant and spray underneath.

6 Repeat the natural insect killer application every week.

Tips & Warnings
Remove mulch away from the plant to prevent bugs from hiding or living in the hospitable environment right underneath the plant.
Avoid spraying any insect repellent near seedlings, because they are very sensitive to chemicals while they are first establishing roots.

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 10:59
防虫篇资料 IV

Essential information about controlling garden pests organically

Before we get to a specific A-Z list of pests, here is a summary of what exactly organic garden pest control mixtures consists of and how they work:

Smell: Garlic, tobacco, rhubarb, fish and other strong smelling substances that are used to repel pests.

Gases and odor molecules: Many plants give off natural odors or have volatile oils which some bugs find unpleasant. Often these odors or oils are a warning to bugs that the plant contains its own built in insecticide. Concoctions made from these plants will deter pests.

Heat or fumes: Chilies, kerosene, methylated spirits, salt etc, will burn, harm or kill pests.

Oil: Mineral oil, vegetable oils and proprietary oils, such as those made with cottonseed oil, will suffocate soft-bodied pests.

Soap: Natural vegetable based soaps or detergents are added to sprays in small amounts to make them stick to plants. Many insects dislike and are harmed by soap also.

Never use spray on plants during hot sunny weather as it may cause the leaves to burn. Natural soap is tolerated by plants better than detergent (which may have other ingredients such as surfactants, enzymes and softeners added). A small dash of detergent is okay to give a spray some 'stickiness.'

Decide what you need to do and do no more. For example, do you want to kill the wretched caterpillars that are making a mess of your cabbages? Right, get the biggies by hand and/or make up a strong killer mix and stop them in their munchy tracks!

From then on you should be able to keep an eye out and use only a mixture that deters or repels the butterflies or moths from landing to lay eggs.
Always remember you want a garden teeming with life with the many insects and creatures keeping each other in check without you rocking the boat too much.
Yes you want wonderful vegetables, flowers and trees to eat and enjoy; so practice diversity and don't aim for perfection and neatness. Even when using natural sprays, do as little harm as possible and don't try to outgun nature.

Here are the best non-toxic organic garden pest control solutions

http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/organic-garden-pest-control.html
Garlic fire spray is the stuff of legend. There are many recipes, but they consist of some or all of the following: garlic, chilli peppers, soap, vegetable oil, kerosene and water. Don't leave home without a concoction of this. Depending on its strength it will slay dragons and ants (must have dragons if we mention legends)!
The brew I use at the moment is very effective and goes like this:

- 2-3 garlic bulbs (about 6-10 cloves per bulb)
- 6 large or 12 smaller hot chilli peppers (any variety will do, or if unavailable try 1-2 tablespoon hot chilli powder)
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- 3 squirts of liquid detergent (approximately 1 dessertspoonful)
- 7 cups water. (Use about 2-3 cups in the blender, and top up with the rest later)

Put the whole lot into a blender and vitamize well, then strain through muslin, a coffee filter or similar. Pour what you need into a spray bottle for use and keep the rest in jars with lids on in a cupboard or on a shelf somewhere, well labeled.

Experiment with it if necessary and check for results or any damage to young plants. If it fixes the problem and your plants are happy, you've got the perfect mix, but if there's still a few biggie pests, albeit struggling, then lower the water dilution rate or change the ingredient quantities slightly.

Lovely garlicky, pongy stuff, but the smell dissipates quickly once it's been sprayed around. This garlic fire mixture needs to be re-sprayed frequently, such as after rain and dew. It's best to spray every few days until there's no sign of pests, then about every week to 10 days for any eggs or larvae that may have hatched out.

Uses for this natural garden pest control are unlimited. Because it has oil and dishwashing liquid in it, it sticks to plants as well as suffocating pests such as scale and mealy bug. It will kill ants, aphids, caterpillars, grubs, bugs and just about anything small. SO BE VERY SELECTIVE — MIND THE LADYBUGS, LACEWINGS, BEES
AND OTHER BENEFICIAL FRIENDS.

Spraying this mixture around the edge of your garden will deter pets. Rabbits, gophers, woodchucks and other garden gate crashers will also be discouraged.

Here's another version, if you don't have a blender (really!). Put a whole garlic bulb through a garlic press and let it sit in a glass jar with several ounces of mineral or salad oil. Mix a few spoonfuls with dishwashing liquid, hot pepper sauce and water in a spray bottle.

You can make a pure smothering oily mixture. Blend together ½ cup of liquid or grated pure soap in 1 cup of vegetable oil. Any cheap salad oil from supermarket is fine. Use a blender or beat by hand and it will become a thick white consistency. To use, mix 1 tablespoon with 1 litre of warm water and spray every bit of plant where you find the pests you're after.

Fish Fertiliser is another useful jack-of-all trades deterrent for unwanteds, such as mites, caterpillars and even nematodes. It seems some gardeners, orchardists and farmers noticed that when they sprayed their plants with fish fertiliser, the pests held their noses, packed up and left, spreading the word as they did so.
Exactly why it works is not yet clear but there are a couple of possibilities:
Firstly, because fish fertiliser is oily, this smothers nematodes and mites.
Secondly butterflies and moths find their host plants by their acute sense of smell. So they are not going to hang around breeding caterpillars when the smell of cauliflowers or apples is masked by fish!
Be considerate of your neighbours though, as they might not like the fishy aroma that lingers around for a day or so.
Here are some more organic garden pest control alternatives...

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 30-6-2011 11:02 编辑 ]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 11:05

原帖由 MillerYang 于 30-6-2011 10:55 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

信息量好大。。。得找个时间好好消化才行

呵呵，我的笔记本里，收集了好多的资料，趁机也整理一下。

作者: MillerYang 时间: 30-6-2011 11:10
标题: 回复 #86 格桑梅朵的帖子
你可以开始加分了

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 11:11
标题: 回复 #87 MillerYang 的帖子
呵呵，谢谢！

作者: MillerYang 时间: 30-6-2011 11:16
标题: 回复 #88 格桑梅朵的帖子
提个建议哈。。。

你的首页目录做成超链接的就更方便大众了

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 11:18

原帖由 MillerYang 于 30-6-2011 11:16 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

提个建议哈。。。

你的首页目录做成超链接的就更方便大众了

链接的话只能到哪一页吧，能直接指到哪一楼吗？

作者: MillerYang 时间: 30-6-2011 11:22
标题: 回复 #90 格桑梅朵的帖子
可以。。。

你点那一楼的“引用”。。。然后新的编辑页面里就有这楼的超链接

作者: Greenhouse 时间: 30-6-2011 11:22

原帖由 格桑梅朵 于 30-6-2011 10:15 发表

 登录/注册后可看大图

这里来说说肥料。

有机肥当然是首选，Bunnings有卖牛的，鸡的，羊的。
鸡粪含磷钾突出.适合花芽分化时期,当然也不是说其他时期使用就没效果,而是来比较三者的突出区别.牛粪属于冷性肥料,一般不会出现烧根的情况. ...

今早在前院儿把agapanthus都挖了。把土全番了两遍，第二遍的时候用了四袋鸡肥，整整用了我两个小时。
两周后，前院种菜！

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 11:26
标题: 回复 #91 MillerYang 的帖子
我试试看

作者: sunnyclh1211 时间: 30-6-2011 12:17
标题: 回复 #92 Greenhouse 的帖子
芦笋好吃啊，不是说可以长很久的吗，为什么要挖掉呢？

看错了，看成Asparagus啦。

[ 本帖最后由 sunnyclh1211 于 30-6-2011 12:20 编辑 ]

作者: xofish 时间: 30-6-2011 12:48
好贴要顶！

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 13:18
防虫篇资料V
上面罗列了很多无公害方法灭虫的方法，其实原理总结下来也就是：
- 气味驱赶法，一些植物天然的气味或者等分泌出一些挥发性的物质能让某些害虫畏而远之，比如大蒜，烟草等等
- 发热法灭虫，辣椒水，酒精类，盐水等喷到害虫身上，会使害虫自身发热受伤致死。
- 油法灭虫，矿物油，植物油会使一些软体类害虫窒息死亡。
- 皂法灭虫，洗涤剂或其他皂类产品的稀释液也可以使一些害虫粘住无法动弹等死。

我现在还没有能力总结出什么害虫该用什么方法，但手上倒是有一份这样的资料供大家参考，感兴趣的话就慢慢读吧

http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/organic-garden-pest-control.html

A-Z of Garden Pests

Ants: Studying ants is a lesson in survival. If ants encounter a substance that kills them or forms a barrier, they set to work and pile up enough of each other, dead or alive, to make a bridge to cross.
There are over 14,000 ant species worldwide. Some are useful as biological control in farming, many have painful bites and some eat crops. Controlling ants in the garden is the focus here, so whether you have brown coastal ants, bull ants or tiny black ants, most of them continually scout around searching for food and if you see one, it's probably left a scent trail and in a flash the rest of the team will be on their way.
In your vegetable garden ants 'farm' aphids, even moving aphids to put them on better plants. The ants collect the sweet honeydew that aphids secrete after sucking plant sap. Mealy bugs and scale are other soft-bodied insects that secrete honeydew which ants collect. The ants make tunnels and nests in your soil and undermine roots and really roughshod it over everything in your garden if they get out of hand.
You have to be crafty to totally get rid of ants. Some instant ant ammunition...
Borax can be used as a natural insecticide, although must be kept away from children, pets and protect yourself too. Watch your eyes, nose, use gloves and wash hands afterwards. Borax mixed with peanut butter or something sweet, such as honey, means the ants eat it and take it back to their nest to share with other ants, hopefully poisoning all in the nest.
Diatomaceous earth sprinkled on ants' trails kills ants by dehydration when they're back in their nest.
Garlic fire spray will kill ants on contact... but there's plenty more on their way!
There are lots of organic garden pest control deterrent for ants, but keep applying and changing them because they are determined little blighters indeed. When ants are under attack, some ants will gather a few eggs and move to another location, so often all you achieve is for them to move their nest somewhere else, in which case unless they become a pest again, leave them in peace.
Some more ant strategies...
Dab some jam, honey or sugar water (and borax if you wish) on the base of aphid infested plants. That will hold the ants back whilst you set some ladybugs on the aphids. You can spray the aphids and ants, but the ants will have a store of eggs underground and will soon move back to start farming again.
Cucumber peels on ant routes will send them away for a while.
If you find the ants' nest, make them disappear by sprinkling in or near their entrance one or more of these: black pepper, cayenne pepper, cinnamon or chilli powder. Likewise salt sends them into a frenzy.
Boiling water can then be poured on as many ants as you can reach (as long as it's safe and away from plants). Boiling water can of course be poured down an ant nest to kill the queen — if you are lucky enough to find an easy to reach nest, but usually they are very deep and constructed to stop rain and flooded water going in.

Aphids: Rhubarb leaves are semi-poisonous to us, and a tea brewed from rhubarb leaves poisons smaller critters, such as aphids, mites, white fly, caterpillars etc. Pour boiling water over crushed rhubarb leaves then leave to soak for several days. Strain, add a good squirt of detergent and dilute enough so that it looks like weak tea and spray over pest infested plants. Repeat every 10 days or so.
Also try the garlic/chilli sprays above.

Caterpillars: To discourage moths and grubs on corn, fruit, brassicas (includes broccoli, spinach, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kale, collard greens, pak choi and kohlrabi) simply spray with a molasses blend. Mix one tablespoon of molasses with a litre of hot water. Then add a teaspoon of liquid detergent and put in a spray bottle. Spray the leaves, top and bottom, about once a week.

An alternative to the molasses spray is a blend of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water. Add a teaspoon of liquid detergent and put in a spray bottle. Spray the leaves, top and bottom to kill off grubs and bugs.
Also see Garlic fire spray at the top and Rhubarb spray under Aphids.

Earwigs: Eeeewahh... If earwigs are eating your plants, crumple some newspaper in old flower pots and leave them in the garden. The earwigs will hide in the paper once they're done eating. In the morning, shake the paper out where they can have a new home or into a bucket of hot water if earwigs aren't your cup of tea.

Fleas: There are whole websites devoted to killing fleas in the home, so here we'll just deal with fleas in the garden.
To deter fleas outside use diatomaceous earth and sprinkle it on your shoes and socks as you step into the garden. This way those fleabags won't hitch a ride back inside with you. DE consists of vast amounts of microscopic fossilized, broken down diatoms. It looks like flour and is harmless to animals and humans. It kills small insects and bugs by cutting into their surface, thus causing dehydration. It's often used in grain silos so is available in farmers' stores as well as some health outlets.
It's ok for you and pets to ingest diatomaceous earth as it kills parasites, but it is a very fine powder so avoid breathing it in.
Pennyroyal (sometimes called stinking roger) grown near the door and in the garden gets rid of fleas. There are pennyroyal pet soaps and washes that are sold to protect pets from fleas.

Gophers: Here's a few tricks to try to deter gophers:
* Encourage birds of prey by putting water bird baths in garden and keeping foliage around the garden edge down so the birds can spot any such rodents.
* Lay mesh around your garden edge at least 45cm (18") deep. Some gardeners even lay it on the bottom of a garden bed.
* Have some pets, such as a dog or even a cat, and make sure they are out and about during dawn and dusk at the same time as gophers get active. Gophers and other burrowing creatures will avoid trespassing where there are family pets in sight.
* Spraying with Garlic fire works but depending on garden size it may be too big a task and too expensive to make enough and keep using it.
* If you already have a few gopher holes, put the hose down them and flood their tunnels.

Mealy bugs: Treat these soft pale pink, white or gray sucking insects the same way as scale. Indoor plants are susceptible to mealy bugs because of the sheltered environment, so in your garden mealy bugs love glass houses and plants growing near or under weather protection.
Mealy bugs multiply rapidly and will soon sap the life of a plant, causing distortion and stunted growth first. They are easy to squish with fingers or dab with a cotton bud dipped in methylated spirits. They have a slight waxy coating so anything that burns this off, such as meths, causes death by dehydration. Smothering with oil is also effective.

Mice: If they get into your home from the garden, smarten up your housekeeping to the point of being fanatical. Don't leave food out, put stored food in containers and empty the crumb tray of your toaster.
Deter mice with peppermint or eucalyptus oil – soak cloths or cottonwool and put where mice come in or have been. They tend to go around edges and under appliances, so concentrate your efforts there and if you have to lay traps, bait them with peanut butter, cheese, stiff porridge or bread.

Mildew, mould and fungus: Plants that are susceptible to mildew, such as peas, pumpkin, zucchini and cucumber can benefit from a milk spray. Use full-cream milk and spray every few days on the leaves until the mildew is under control.
If the small white patches of mildew are just starting, you should be able to catch it early and stop further spreading by using a diluted milk solution of equal parts water and milk.
If the situation is out of control, either remove the affected leaves or the whole plant and destroy it.
" Damping off" is caused by fungi such as Phtophtora and Pythium. Seedlings, like lettuce, suddenly collapse with the rot. Soggy conditions, overcrowding or too much peat in the mix can be the cause. Try letting the soil dry out on the surface in-between waterings, and even sprinkling a layer of sand on the surface.
Sand and a dry surface will also control "Fungus gnats." They are tiny little black midget type flies that crawl and fly around the surface of the soil. They lay their eggs and the larvae will damage seedling by eating their roots.
Chamomile tea is a fungicide. Prepare a cup of chamomile tea and allow it to steep for 10 minutes. Once cool it can be sprayed on the affected leaves, top and bottom.
Cinnamon powder sprinkled around plants and soil also controls fungus.
If you can make or buy good quality Compost tea, this is extremely beneficial. Compost tea balances the microbes and bacteria in the soil, thus fighting the disease organisms and providing active healthy organisms and fertiliser to strengthen plants and make them resistant to problems.

Moles: See Voles and Gophers. Moles eat insects and worms; they don't harm plants except by their earthworks.

Opossums: Opossum deterrents are many, with only anecdotal evidence that some work. Reliable tests do give credit to camphor to repel opossums. Mix natural camphor flakes or oil to a paste with something like Vaseline and rub around tree trunks, or put camphor in stocking leg or net bag and hang from a branch.
If opossums just love your garden and fruit and veggies, it may be worth your while to fence them out. Use floppy but strong chicken netting just under 90cm (3ft) high supported on lengths of fencing wire that are curved outward at the top so those cheeky possums just get swung around when then try to climb up. Bury the netting 20cm (8") in the ground.
For fruit trees put a smooth, wide metal collar around the trunk to stop them climbing up.
Keeping chickens nearby may also deter opossums.

Scale: It can be a shock to peer at a plant and realise that it's covered in black, brown or green scale. More of a shock will be when in a short while your plant starts turning up its toes in a stunted sort of way, so tackle scale as soon as you find it. Scale gathers on leaves and stems, sucking the life out of plants.
A black fungus called sooty mould grows on the sweet honeydew secretions from scale. This does the plants no good and looks awful. Ants also love scale honeydew and will aggressively farm scale to obtain as much as they can.
The odd scale can be scraped off with your nail, blunt knife or toothbrush. Always check a week or so later for any new ones.
Garlic fire spray also works, because it kills the crawling nymphs as well as smothering the waxy coated adults which permanently attach themselves to the plant.
Also mix 1/4 teaspoon of oil, 2 tablespoons baking soda and 1 tablespoon mild liquid soap in two gallons of water. Spray or wipe on plants once a week for 3 weeks or until gone.

Slugs: Do a night patrol as for snails. The best time is dusk especially when it's damp or raining. Don't use your hand to pick them up — it's horrendous trying to get that sticky stuff off. Scoop them up with an old spoon, dump them in a bucket and scrape them out somewhere where they won't be a pest.
If there's nowhere else for them but kapow... give them a quick stamp with your shoe, or salt sprinkled on snails and slugs will kill them instantly. Go out in the evening with a flashlight and protect your plants!
Sprinkle crushed egg shells around vulnerable plants. Slugs and snails will avoid crossing the sharp shells and it will enrich your soil with calcium. Children like to help here, they love crushing eggshells. Keep them in a jar until you have enough to use.
Another dislike of snails is sand, which they do not like to cross. Put a band of fine sand about 1cm (1/4") high around the garden edge or base of plants.
Sprays like Garlic fire don't work with slugs and snails — they are mollusks, not insects

Snails: As for slugs mostly. Also put beer in a shallow pan in the garden to trap snails and slugs overnight. Vinegar in a shallow pan will do the same thing.
Orange or grapefruit halves hollowed and turned upside down placed around the garden will also attract snails and slugs. Go out in the morning to remove or deliver the coup de grace on those hiding under the peel.

Spider mites: There are unknown millions of mite species, many similar to thrips. In the garden the two-spotted mite is commonly called red spider mite because in the cold weather it changes from pale green with two red spots to orange/red, looking like a miniature red spider.
Like thrips, spider mites suck the chlorophyll from the leaves of plants. Spider mites leave white translucent spots of damage and no dark droppings. In heavier infestations a silky web is obvious, which is secreted by the mites to protect themselves from enemies and poisons. These webs can cover a whole plant.
Natural predatory mites are the best control, so having compost and mulch to encourage beneficial mites will keep the right balance. Spiders, parasitic wasps, lady bugs and lacewings also feed on red spider mites.
Use a soap spray to eradicate these critters. Spray plants weekly until mites are gone, then monthly to stop them from returning. Also see other sprays under Caterpillars.

Thrips: There is no singular word for thrips — such as a thrip. And look at one of their names Heliothrips haemorrhoidalis! So these horribly named beasties come by the gangload.
Microscopic greenhouse thrips rasp away on the surface cells of leaves and suck out their chlorophyll contents. The hollowed, air-filled cells then take on a silvery, tissue paper look. This later turns brownish and crinkly and there are dark spots of thrips droppings seen.
Some thrips also spread viruses, such as the tomato spotted wilt virus. Not nice.
Keep weeds down if troubled with thrips, as thrips overwinter in nearby ground foliage waiting for their favourite plants the next season.
Garlic fire spray trips thrips up and there are a number of predatory bugs native to different countries. Lacewing larvae are a good biological control also. See Beneficial Garden insects and creatures.

Voles: (Also see Gophers) Unlike Moles, Voles only eat roots and bark rather than insects and worms. Electronic gadgets were popular once for organic garden pest control, but apparently have little success on Voles, so you might have to resort to mouse traps if you're desperate. Bait traps with bread or stiff porridge, then lay the traps on the vole trails, cover each trap with a box with a hole (to stop birds and possibly other animals, and kids) and keep checking and moving and replacing until you win!

Whitefly: Windy conditions keep whitefly away temporarily, and also a strongish hose down will move them on. Detergent or oil coats their wings and stops them flying, so mix up approximately 1-2 teaspoons detergent to 1 litre (15oz) water, or half a cup of cheap salad oil to 1 litre water, with a dash of detergent. Spray all over infected plants, including underside of leaves if possible.
Whitefly are attracted to yellow. Get some sticky stuff, such as vaseline, castor oil, natural gum resin, or vegetable wax. Tie bright yellow plastic bag bits coated with sticky stuff to stakes, or smear a yellow plastic bucket, or paint a nearby board the brightest yellow you can buy.
If necessary shake the whitefly off the plants then watch as they land on the yellow traps and get stuck.

See how simple organic garden pest control is?

You're the owner of those veggies doggone it, not those garden pests. So mix up a batch of whatever you need now and may the luck be with you.
Even with natural ingredients, don't get sprays in your eyes, or even touch your eyes with your hands after mixing up concoctions. Label sprays well and keep out of reach of children.
Always remember your community spirit towards those that co-share your garden and surrounds. Sometimes you may have to learn to live with a little wastage for you and the planet to stay healthy.

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 30-6-2011 13:20 编辑 ]

作者: liyuefu 时间: 30-6-2011 13:31
好帖留名，谢谢楼主分享

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 13:43
防虫灭虫总是最让我头疼的事情，上面列举的方法也试过很多，会有一些成效，但从来没有什么方法是万能的。如果忍无可忍的时候，有时候害虫实在猖獗的时候，我也会洒些农药，否则眼看着就全喂了虫。

勉强还可以忍受的时候，我就这么做：
1 Give your plants a good spraying the day before applying pesticide to remove excess pests.
2 Mix in a bucket 1 gallon of water, 2 tbsp. of vegetable cooking oil, and 2 tbsp. of a de-greasing dishwashing liquid.
3 Pour the mixture into a water bottle and save the rest in a sealable container.
4 Dry off any wet leaves of the plant with a towel. Spray the mixture, so that it covers the crown of the plant down to 3 inches from the ground.
5 Lift the leaves of the plant and spray underneath.
6 Repeat the natural insect killer application every week.

有时候我会在溶液里加辣椒粉，或者就直接喷辣椒水！
害虫不猖獗的时候这样做会有些用的，但必须每周都喷，稍不留神又卷土重来了。

但要记住了，千万不要在大太阳底下喷洒，否则太热菜叶自己也烧坏了，建议傍晚时候；也不要下雨前或下完雨马上喷，都流走了。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 30-6-2011 13:51 编辑 ]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 14:13
一些小常识：
在种植过程中还有些小常识可以帮助蔬菜长得更好。比如说连作和轮作。
简单的说，连作就是在一块地上连着种某种蔬菜；轮作就是一块地上轮流种植不同的蔬菜。
一些蔬菜是不好连作的，他们的根部会分泌一些毒性物质，累积会产生自毒作用，如茄子和芹菜，有时候连作还会是某种病虫害加剧，或者土壤中这种植物所需的养分已经被上一茬吸收光了。
而巧妙的轮作不但可以避开上边的缺点，还可以使某些“毒性物质”变成另外一些蔬菜的营养成分。

可以连作：小白菜、萵苣、茼蒿、葱、胡萝卜、菠菜、韭菜
不宜连作：茄子、番茄、马铃薯、青椒、碗豆、四季豆、萝卜、胡瓜、扁蒲、丝瓜
轮作：萝卜 -----> 茄子
   胡瓜-----> 葱-----> 扁豆
   茄子-----> 萝卜-----> 菠菜
   甘蓝-----> 甜菜-----> 莴苣-----> 萝卜

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 16-8-2011 12:29 编辑 ]

作者: 格桑梅朵 时间: 30-6-2011 14:29
菠菜

在绿叶蔬菜中，菠菜也是一种耐寒力较强的。
菠菜种子发芽的最低温度为4℃，最适温度为15~20℃。在适温下4天发芽，质量高的种子，发芽率达90%以上温度再升高，发芽率降低，发芽天数增多；35℃时，发芽率不到20%。所以高温季节播种时，种子必须事先放在冷凉环境中浸种催芽。

菠菜的食用部分为柔嫩多汁的叶片，种植过程水分的消耗量大，所以对水分的要求比较高。在空气相对湿度为80%~90%、土壤含水量为18%~20%的环境中，叶部生长旺盛，品质柔嫩。空气和土壤干燥使叶部生长缓慢，组织老化，纤维增多，品质下降。特别是温度高、日照时间长的季节，缺水使营养器官发育不良，但花薹的发育占优势，从而加速了抽薹，而且雄株数目超过雌株，对菠菜采种也造成不利影响。

土壤菠菜要求微酸性至中性的土壤。在酸性土壤中，生长缓慢，严重时叶色变黄，叶片变硬，无光泽，不伸展。所以，土壤酸性太大的土壤应施用石灰或草木灰，使酸性降低。

为保证菠菜的正常生长，需要施用氮、磷、钾三要素俱全的肥料。在此基础上，要特别重视氮肥的施用。氮肥充足时，叶部生长旺盛，不仅可以提高产量，增进品质，而且可以延长供应期。缺氮时，植株矮小，叶色发黄，叶片小而薄，纤维多，而且容易早抽薹。

[ 本帖最后由格桑梅朵于 30-6-2011 14:30 编辑 ]

欢迎光临 FreeOZ论坛 (https://hioz.im/bbs/)